Bleu d'Auvergne AOP, - The Bleu d'Auvergne French Blue Cheese. Bleu d'Auvergne in French Cuisine.

from
Behind the French Menu
by
Bryan G. Newman

behindthefrenchmenu@gmail.com

 

A wedge of Bleu d'Auvergne AOP 
Photograph courtesy of Andi Fisher

The Bleu d'Auvergne Cheese.
     
Bleu d'Auvergne AOP - A  creamy, crumbly, and tasty, 29% fat, blue, (fromage  à pâte persillés), cow’s milk cheese made from non-pasteurized milk from the department of Cantal in the Auvergne-Rhône-Alpes. (Pasteurized milk is used for exports to the USA). The cheese is aged for a minimum of four weeks before sale. On the menu Bleu d'Auvergne will be part of a French apéro, a pre-dinner drink and snack, or in a sauce with steak or fish, on a cheese plater or the cheese trolley, or part of a dessert with fruit. There is excellent dining in the region, with many Auvergnat dishes on French Menus, where the Bleu d'Auvergne has an important part to play.
    
A whole cheese weighs between 2-3 kilos, (4.5 -6.5 lbs).
Buying cheese in France and taking it home.

The original plan for Bleu d'Auvergne was for a cow’s milk version of the Roquefort sheep’s milk cheese. 

Bleu d'Auvergne is a strongly flavored blue cheese that was created by a farmer called Antoine Roussel almost 150 years ago. Originally Roussel planned for the cheese to be a cow’s milk version of the Roquefort sheep’s milk cheese and Roquefort is a very potent blue cheese.  While Bleu d'Auvergne is a strong cheese, it is not up there with Roquefort among the powerhouse blue cheeses.
    
The dog that ate too much Bleu d’Auvergne cheese.
    
Bleu d'Auvergne on French menus:
     
Bavette d'Aloyau à la Plancha, Sauce au Bleu d'Auvergne – A flank steak cooked on a thick iron plancha and served with a Bleu d'Auvergne sauce.
 
Moules au Bleu d'Auvergne, Frites Moules Frites - Mussels cooked in a broth flavored with Bleu d'Auvergne and served with French fries, chips, accompanied by fresh mayonnaise.
 
Pavé de Bœuf "Aubrac," Sauce au Bleu d'Auvergne et Aligot – A rump steak from the Label Rouge, red label, Aubrac beef served with a Bleu d’Auvergne sauce and accompanied by Aligot.
 
The Aubrac cattle are raised on the Aubrac plateau. There the cattle freely graze, in summer, from the south of the Massif Central through parts of the department of Cantal in the Auvergne-Rhône-Alpes and the department of Lozère in the region of Occitanie.
  
Aligot is a traditional, tasty, mashed potato and cheese dish that remains very popular.

N.B. On 1-1-2016 France changed the borders of its mainland regions creating super-regions including Occitanie and the Auvergne-Rhône-Alpes. Thereby, reducing the number of mainland France regions from 22 to 13.
    
Aubrac cattle.
https://www.flickr.com/photos/loloieg/9583448627/sizes/m/
     
Truite de Vourzac au Bleu d'Auvergne  - Trout, from the department of Haute-Loire in the south of the Auvergne - Rhône-Alpes prepared with the Bleu d’Auvergne cheese. On a menu listing like this, you may usually choose if you prefer your fish grilled, fried or steamed.
   
Fishing in the Auvergne-Rhône-Alpes.
https://www.flickr.com/photos/129993975@N04/21025503022/
  
Velouté d'Asperges, Poire au Bleu d'Auvergne – A velvety soup made with asparagus, pears and the Bleu d'Auvergne.
   
Chilled asparagus soup with Bleu d'Auvergne and goat's cheese.
        
The town of Riom-ès-Montagnes
  
In the department of Cantal in the region of Auvergne-Rhône-Alpes is the small, walkable, town of Riom-ès-Montagnes. The town is the center for farmers whose cows provide the milk for the Bleu d’Auvergne cheese; nearly 25 liters of milk are needed for every kilo of cheese. 
                           
Riom-ès-Montagnes and its farmers are also very proud of the gentian plants they grow. The nationally popular, alcoholic drink called Suze is made with gentian roots though the primary use of gentian is for homeopathic medicines.  Riom-ès-Montagnes has a gentian festival, their Fête de la Gentiane on the first weekend in July and then six weeks later they have a festival for their famous blue cheese their Fête du Bleu d'Auvergne.
 
For more about Riom-ès-Montagnes use the Bing or Google translation apps and click on these two French language websites with links to the town:
 
   
The Fete of the Fromage Bleu d'Auvergne.
     
The Fête du Bleu d'Auvergne, is held in Riom-ès-Montagnes during the third weekend in August. Their website, like the others, is in French only, but with a translation app is easily understood.

         
The Regional Natural Volcano Park of the Auvergne
    
Riom-ès-Montagnes is inside the Regional Natural Volcano Park of the Auvergne, Le Parc Naturel Régional des Volcans d'Auvergne. The park is the largest regional park in France, and apart from more than 80 enthralling, but extinct, volcanoes in the summer there is hiking, fishing, and water sports; all that apart from the Bleu d’Auvergne cheese.
   
Inside the Volcano Park.
       
The park’s English language website is:
    
All the AOP cheeses from the Auvergne-Rhône-Alpes.
 
Depending on how you count them the Auvergne-Rhône-Alpes is blessed with 15 or 16 AOP cheeses, more than any other region in France:
   
Abondance AOP, a hard, yellow cow’s milk cheese.
Beaufort AOP, a hard, yellow cow’s milk cheese.
Bleu d'Auvergne, the subject of this post.
Bleu du Vercors-Sassenage AOP a mild, pasteurized, cow’s milk, blue cheese.
Cantal AOP, a hard, yellow, cow’s milk cheese.
Chevrotin AOP, a soft, goat's milk cheese.
Fourme d’Ambert AOP, a blue veined, mild, cow’s milk cheese.
Fourme de Montbrison AOP, a mild cow’s milk blue cheese, very much like the Fourme de Ambert AOP.
Picodon AOP, Picadon de l'Ardèche AOP or Picodon de la Drome AOP, the first goat's milk cheese to be awarded an AOC.
Reblochon AOP, a soft, cow’s milk cheese.
Salers AOP, a hard, yellow cows’ milk cheese.
Rigotte AOP or Rigotte de Condrieu AOP, a soft, goat’s milk cheese.
Saint-Nectaire AOP a creamy and nutty, semi-firm, cow’s milk cheese.
Tome des Bauges AOP -  a semi-hard, cow’s milk cheese.
  
Other cheeses from the Auvergne-Rhône-Alpes:
   
Bleu de Gex AOP is also called the Blue du Haut Jura and the Blue de Septmoncel. – A mild, cow’s milk, blue cheese, claimed by the region of Bourgogne-Franche-Comté (Burgundy and Franche-Comté) where about 50% of the cheese is made in the department of Jura.  The other 50% comes from the department of Ain in the Auvergne-Rhône-Alpes.
  
Gruyere Francaise IGP  -  French Gruyere IGP, a hard, yellow cheese.  Not unsurprisingly French Gruyere tastes somewhat similar to the Swiss Gruyere. While, the French cheese has small holes, and the Swiss has none.  The French lost the rights to call their cheese Gruyere AOP in the European Union as the town of Gruyere is a Swiss city.  Nevertheless, French Gruyere will be on many menus in France and then it is usually just called Gruyere without any declared nationality.
 
Tomme de Savoie IGP - A semi-soft cow’s milk cheese. A very popular and tasty cheese that remains without an AOP. I learned to love this cheese while spending a week travelling around Lake Annecy.  Lake Annecy is in the department of Haute-Savoie in the Auvergne-Rhône-Alpes
    
Connected Posts:
 
 
 
  
Beaufort AOP, One of France's Finest Cheeses.
 
 
 
 
  
 

 
   
 
 
 
    
   
    
   

Behind the French Menu
by
Bryan G. Newman

 

behindthefrenchmenu@gmail.com

 

Copyright 2016.
   

Turbot - Turbot. Turbot, the fish on French Menus.

from
Behind the French Menu
by
Bryan G. Newman

behindthefrenchmenu@gmail.com

 

     
A Wild Turbot
   
Turbot – Turbot or Breet, a flatfish, but not a flounder. Turbot is one of the world's best tasting white fish; it’s up there with Dover Sole. Turbot has lean, white, mild tasting, firm flesh and most of the fish on restaurant menus are farm-raised. If I had been asked to blind taste farm-raised turbot and wild turbot I would catch the farm-raised fish every time; nevertheless, farm-raised turbot is a whole lot better than no turbot.
  
Farm-raised turbot and wild turbot compared.
  
Farm-raised turbot weighs from 0.5 kg to 2 kg (1 to 4 lbs ). Wild turbot, turbot sauvage in French, are much larger than farmed fish. With their rounded diamond shape, wild turbot mostly weighs over 6 kg (13 lbs), and are sometimes larger. Wild turbot are caught off France’s Atlantic, and Mediterranean coasts and individual fish have been caught weighing over 10 kg (22 lbs). Turbot have been overfished, and catches are now limited.
       
Turbot is best when cooked as part of the whole fish, but then they may be very large, and so filets will be cut and prepared individually. Turbot filets are best when steamed, poached or pan-fried; regardless, turbot are on menus when grilled or roasted. As turbot is a fish that quickly dries out, grilling and roasting must be done with great care.
 
The French word for turbot is spelled the same as in English, but the final T is not pronounced.  Just pronounce the word turbo, like a car with a turbo engine, and your server will be impressed.
  
Turbot and barbue - brill.
  
Restaurants have been known to use the smaller but similar tasting barbue, brill, when wild turbot is unavailable, and I have also seen a Parisian fish shop that was very openly selling brill marked as turbot.   Nevertheless, there is not a huge difference in the taste as brill is a member of the turbot family.  When brill is cooked its milder than turbot flavor may be hidden with a sauce, and so it is not easily identified. Before either of the fish are cooked or fileted it is easy to see that turbot is not a smooth fish and has bumps but no scales, while brill is smooth with scales.

Turbotin –  A small turbot.

Turbot on French menus:
 
Filet de Turbot à la Crème d'Huîtres, Risotto aux Algues – Filet of turbot served with a creamy, oyster sauce and a seaweed-flavored risotto.
   
Lightly fried turbot
https://www.flickr.com/photos/djjewelz/5037597818/
    
Tronçon de Turbot Sauce Hollandaise - A filet of turbot served with Sauce Hollandaise. This cut, tronçon, is pronounced tronson. The cut is the original name used for filets from flatfish. Despite its origins tronçon is now used for a cut of meat also.
 
Pavé de Turbot. A wide filet of turbot.  Literally, pavé means a paving stone or a flat slab. On a menu pavé will describe slices of steak, liver and or fish and is also used in the names of particular square and oblong-shaped cheeses.
       
Jean Georges Turbot with Chateau Chalon sauce.
Vin Jaunes are aged for a minimum of six years and three months and taste like dry fino sherry. 
                 
Turbot Poché Sauce Hollandaise, Pommes Vapeur, Épinard (Pour Deux Personnes) – Poached turbot served in a Sauce Hollandaise together with steamed potatoes and spinach. (For two persons).  Restaurants will prefer to cook their turbot, when purchased as a whole fish, on the bone, which is the tastiest way.   A turbot provides four filets, and so here it seems they will be serving each diner two small filets, half of a small, farm-raised fish.
   
Turbot Rôti, Cocos de Paimpol, Jus de Crustacés – Roast turbot flavored with the cooking juices from crustaceans and accompanied by France’s  AOC/AOP unique Cocos de Paimpol beans.  N.B. On French menus, crustaceans include crabe – crabs; crevettes-shrimp; écrivisse – freshwater crayfish; homard- the two-clawed lobster; langouste – lobster tails; langoustine – Dublin Bay prawns or scampi, and more.
    
Lightly roasted turbot
served with fennel and samphire.
Samphire is a plant that grows wild along the coasts; it is not a seaweed though it is sometimes called sea asparagus, a name that is given for its looks, not its taste. The turbot steak in the picture was cooked with the skin on as turbot easily dries out when roasted.
         
Turbot Sauvage - Wild Turbot
The French word sauvage came to English as savage.
        
Turbot Sauvage (selon arrivage) Poché dans son Jus, Champignons, Petits Pois, Carottes, Crémeux Acidulée - Wild turbot, (depending on availability), poached in its own juices and served with a creamy, tangy sauce; accompanied by button mushrooms, baby peas, and carrots.
    
Turbot in the languages of France’s neighbors:
    
(Catalan - rèmol empetxinat), (Dutch – tarbot), (German – steinbutt), (Italian – rombo, rombo chiodato), (Spanish - rodaballo).
   
Connected Posts:
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

 

 
Sole Française. Dover Sole or Sole Française on French Menus. Dover Sole in France may be on your menu as Sole Française.    
  

  
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Behind the French Menu
by
Bryan G. Newman

 

behindthefrenchmenu@gmail.com

 

Copyright 2010, 2016, 2017.
 



Aiguille, Aiguillette or Orphie – The Garpike, Garfish or Needlefish on French Menus.

from
Behind the French Menu
by
Bryan G. Newman

behindthefrenchmenu@gmail.com

 

        

The garfish, garpike or needlefish.
   
The garfish or garpike on  a French menu will come from the European family of needlefish caught in the Atlantic and the Mediterranean.  These relatively long, thin, seafish, with their spiky beaks may be offered marinated in wine or smoked as an entrée, the French starter. They are a little fatty, but French chefs know that they are also very tasty and have a firm texture; a good marinade or grilling will remove most of the fat.
  
When seen in the market  a large garfish may reach  60 or 70 cm (28") though most are around  40 cm (16") long.
  
Garfish or garpike on the menu:
    
Filets d'Orphies au Curcuma – Filets of garpike flavored with tumeric.
  
Orphie Marinée Ail et Persil Grillée à la Plancha –  Garpike marinated in garlic and  parsley and grilled on the plancha.
    

Marinated garfish.
https://www.flickr.com/photos/purpaboo/4367038161/
  
Tartare de Aiguille  - Garpike Tatar.
       

A garfish caught
       
The European garfish or garpike’s size may amuse an American visitor as there is a  much longer North American fish called a gar or garfish. The  North American fish come from a completely different family of, mostly, freshwater fish that are much longer and heavier.  The Spanish and Italians, like the French all have at least one name that translates as the needlefish in English.   Dictionary.com gives the origin of the English name  to gar, the Middle English word for a spear, a gar.
      

A gull biting off more than it can chew.
   
(Catalan - agulla), (Dutch - geep), (German – hornhecht), (Italian - aguglia, aguin, agogliuin),  (Spanish - aguja, guya, agulla).
    
Connected Posts:
   
  
  
   
     

Behind the French Menu
by
Bryan G. Newman

 

behindthefrenchmenu@gmail.com

 

Copyright 2010, 2016.
   

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