Friday, May 17, 2013

Chanterelle or Chantarelle Girolle - The Chantarelle Mushroom on French Menus. Three of the Four Chanterelle Girolle Mushrooms in French Cuisine. The Mushrooms of France IV.

from
Behind the French Menu.
by
Bryan G. Newman
Last updated March 2017
       

      The cantharellus cibarius.
The Girolle Chanterelle
Photograph courtesy of BioDivLibrary

Chanterelle girolles are wild mushrooms,
and not yet commercially cultivated.
   
The chanterelle girolle is the most well-known member of the chanterelle mushroom family in France; nevertheless, all members of the chanterelle family are welcomed by the chefs of France whether fresh or dried. Dried chanterelles do keep most of their flavor; but the chefs know the difference that fresh chanterelles can make to a dish, and in France, in season, hardly a single menu will not include at least one dish with fresh chanterelles

Each member of the chanterelle family is available fresh at specific times of the year, and I have included, in this post, three of the four most popular chanterelles seen on French menus.  The fourth, the black chanterelle or horn of plenty, in French the trompettes de la mort or corne d’abondance will have its own post.

   
The  mushroom gatherers set out
Photograph courtesy of aSIMULAtor
    
The Chanterelle Girolle, Chanterelle, Chanterelle Ciboire or Jaunotte - The  Chanterelle or  Girolle Chanterelle.

The variety of names used for a single mushroom is part of local traditions and is found in all countries and regions including  North America and the UK. I have been told by more than one chef who, time permitting, pick their own wild mushrooms, that there are many more than four members of the chanterelle family in France.  In order not to confuse the diners with ten or more different names the less well-known chanterelle mushrooms will be prepared together with the chanterelle family member closest in color taste and texture; when cooked any minor differences will have disappeared.

The chanterelle girolle’s color ranges from an ivory white to a yellow-orange and it is a meaty mushroom with a fruity and slightly peppery taste. Fresh chanterelle girolles will be on menus from late May through October.

 The girolle chanterelle on your menu:
      
Cassolette d'Escargots aux Girolles à la Crème de Persillade  Cassolette d'Escargots is a popular snail dish, but here we see a change in the traditional recipe. Here the dish called cassolette d'escargots has had an upgrade with the girolle chanterelle being added to the recipe along with a cream of parsley sauce.  Cassolettes d'escargots are found, with slight differences in the recipe, in most of France’s regions. On every French bistro menu there will be at least one snail dish; if you are in France consider trying at least one snail dish, then you may understand why the French enjoy eating snails.
 
Chanterelles hidden in the grass.
Photograph courtesy of Charles de Mille-Isles
             
Crème de Chanterelle Ciboire  - A cream of girolle chanterelle mushroom soup.

   
Creme de Chanterelle.
Photograph courtesy of skampy

Fricassée de Rognons de Veau aux Jaunottes.- Veal kidneys stewed with girolle chanterelle mushrooms; veal and lamb kidneys are very popular in France. 
     
Chanterelles in the market.
Photograph courtesy of Mark McLaughlin

Risotto de Boulgour aux Chanterelles et Œufs de Caille Pochés.  A risotto made with blé boulgour, bulgur wheat, and the chanterelle mushroom.  Bulgur wheat is the pre-cooked, par-boiled wheat used for taboulé and other traditional North African dishes. French chefs have begun to use this wheat with its slightly nutty flavor for local creations; here the bulgur wheat is made into a risotto with mushrooms and served with poached quail eggs. NB. Quail eggs taste just like a hen’s eggs; however, they are one-fifth the size and so a quail egg omelet for one will be expensive.
             

Chanterelle risotto

Photograph courtesy of Blue moon in her eyes


The Girolle Chanterelle in the languages of France; neighbors:
   
(catalan – rossinyol), (Dutch - hanenkam or cantharel ),(German – pfifferlinge or eierschwamm), (Italian - gallinacio or galletto), (Spanish – chantarela), (Latin - cantharellus cibarius).


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The trumpet chanterelle, number two on the chanterelle popularity stakes:
       
The Chanterelle Gris, Chanterelle en Tube, Chanterelle d'Automne, Chanterelle Jaunissante. Chanterelle en Trompette  - Trumpet Chanterelle, Autumn Chanterelle, or Funnel Chanterelle.


The cantharellus tubaeformis.  
Chanterelle Gris, the Trumpet Chanterelle.
Photograph courtesy of ratexla

This yellow and gray mushroom has a slightly tart mushroom flavor with the typical slightly springy mushroom texture. They are fresh from September through November.

The trumpet chanterelle on French menus:
   
Côte de Veau à la Crème de Chanterelle Grise - A veal chop prepared with a cream of trumpet chanterelle sauce. 
          
Scallops, shrimps and chanterelles.
Photograph courtesy of Bernt Rostad
 
Filet de Fera aux Chanterelles Grise    A filet of the broad whitefish, a supremely tasty member of the trout and salmon families prepared with the trumpet chanterelle mushroom.

Langoustines Toutes Décortiquées Rôties Petites Chanterelles Grises - The Dublin Bay prawn, Scampi or Norwegian Lobster shelled and roasted with small trumpet chantarelle mushrooms. The Dublin Bay prawn is neither a lobster nor even a shrimp; however, this is the real scampi, not the shrimps that in the USA are often on the menu as scampi. Scampi are not easily shelled, and here you may see that the restaurant is letting you know that they have done all the hard work.

     
   
   
Ramasseur de champignons.
  A wild mushroom gatherer washes the result of a day’s work.
Photograph courtesy of jennconspiracy
 
Suprêmes de Faisan Rôtis sur l'os, les Cuisses Farcies aux Chanterelles d'Automne de Nos Ramasseurs  (2 pers.). Breast of pheasant roasted on the bone with the legs stuffed with Autumn chanterelle mushrooms supplied by the restaurant’ s own wild mushroom gatherers. This dish is for a minimum of 2 persons (2 per.). The pheasants on French menus are rarely wild pheasants; like many other traditional game birds and animals pheasant are farmed in France; even wild boar are farmed. The pheasant on this menus is a farmed bird; if this was wild pheasant then the menu would read faisan sauvage

The trumpet chanterelle in the languages  of France's neighbors:

(catalan - fals camagroc ), (Dutch - trechtercantharel), (German – trompetenpfifferling or  herbst pfifferling), (Italian - finferia  or cantarello a  tromba), (Spanish -  angula gris, trompeta amarilla de monte), (Latin -  cantharellus tubaeformis).


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The yellow foot chanterelle is number three in the popularity stakes.
    
Chanterelle à Pied Jaune, Craterelle, Chanterelle Jaune - Yellow Foot  Chantarelle, Golden Chanterelle, Winter Chanterelle. 

When this mushroom’s French name is on the menu as the craterelle  read again carefully as another family member is called the craterelle corne d'abondance  and that is the black chanterelle or horn of plenty mushroom.  The black chanterelles is an equally tasty but different tasting mushroom, and it will be the subject of a separate post. The yellow foot chanterelle is fresh from August through October.


     The craterellus lutescens.
Chanterelle à Pied Jaune, the yellow-foot chanterelle
  
Chanterelle a Pied Jaune Grille aux Noix de Saint-Jacques  –The yellow-foot chanterelle, grilled and served, with the meat of the king scallop

  
Venison with parsnip puree  and chanterelles
Photograph courtesy of stu-spivack
 
Blanc de Cabillaud Vapeur, Mijotée de Chanterelles Jaune -  A filet of cod, which is probably France’s favorite fish, steamed and served with simmered yellow-foot chanterelles.

Filet de Chevreuil aux Craterelles – A fillet from the red deer served with the yellow-foot chanterelle jaune. The red deer on this menu is farm raised; if this was a wild deer then the  menu would read chevreuil sauvage, wild red deer.

The yellow foot chantarelle in the languages of France's neighbors:

(Catalan camagroc )(German - starkriechende pfifferling, gelbe kraterelle,  gelbe kantherelle), (Italian - cantarello giallo), (Spanish - trompeta amarilla, rebozuelo), (Latin - craterellus lutescens)

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NB. If you gather wild mushrooms when in France,
do not eat any that have not been checked!!!
   
Every town and village in France have a trained mycologist, a mushroom expert and local pharmacists have these expert’s addresses. The infamous Jack O’ Lantern mushroom; in French the Pleurote de l'Olivier looks similar to some of the chanterelle mushrooms in the wild. Regular mushroom gatherers may easily spot the difference; however, it is poisonous and can make you very very sick!  In the kitchens of France’s restaurant's wild mushrooms, of all types, may be on the menu; however, chefs only buy wild mushrooms that have been clearly identified by the ramasseurs de champignons, the professional mushroom gatherers.


 


Bryan G Newman

Behind the French Menu
Copyright 2010, 2013, 2017

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